KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 4 — When chefs Ameer Alzalek, Andy Choy and Joel Kirk team up, good things like Zaataru happen.
Like the spice za’atar it was named for, Zaataru’s food is a blend of many different flavours and textures, pulled from the Levant region (Lebanon, Syria, Palestine and Jordan) and Japan, opening one’s mind to some off-kilter twists.
This partnership has food consultant Joel heading Zaataru, fresh from designing cocktail bar Coley’s menu and previous projects at Bol and Lex’s Patio Pantry.
Backing him up is Ameer from Leen’s Middle East Kitchen and S.A.J. Bistronomy — master of puffy breads baked to order in a scorching hot oven and the hot grill, an important part of Levantine cuisine.
Rounding up the trio is Andy, restaurateur-chef of Chateau Dionne, NICE Bistronome, Doux Doux and La Lune, bringing in his know-how on opening restaurants from design and concept.
As you walk up the stairs, the warm brick wall with its single light beaming like a beacon and the Japanese sliding door are a hint of the cuisines paired together inside the rich olive green and burnt orange hued restaurant.
You will be greeted by Zaataru’s name (left) as you walk in. Look for the pink neon signage above Big Boss HSP to find this delightful mix of Levantine and Japan. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
Your experience starts with a complimentary assortment of pickles — yuzu beetroot, ginger, radish, cucumber, umeboshi — opening up your palate for what’s to come.
Most of them can take a rather tart profile, so go easy with them, except the yuzu beetroot which is a victorious pairing as the yuzu brings a brightness to the otherwise dreaded earthiness beetroot often suffers from.
Don’t ignore the pickles though once your orders hit the table, as I discovered they are great for cleansing my palate, allowing me to tackle the desserts or a richer dish.
The menu offers sharing plates and also main meals like Joel’s signature Sirloin Steak and fries, dressed with a Levantine spice butter.
Hummus is integral to Levantine cuisine, as seen with Leen’s smoked hummus and SAJ’s charred chillies hummus, both cult favourites with diners there.
This third version, a Bonito Hummus (RM30) goes rogue from its Levantine core, with an audacious pairing of Japanese superfood of kotsubu natto (kotsubu are smaller size beans), aonori and bonito flakes.
Natto haters may (or not) change their minds as the creamy hummus tempers the nutty fermented soybeans, the bonito flakes dominate more, while the sticky-stringy pull of the beans give it a playfulness as you scoop it up with the fluffy Levantine bread.
Curate the meal with small bites like Grilled Green Olives (RM22) that is steadfast in its piquancy, drowning out the mild wasabi zuke or pickled wasabi root.
The hidden charm in the menu is the grilled meats: Chicken Shawarma (RM35) and Lamb Kebab (RM58).
Served cut, the Chicken Shawarma is a one-bite item, as the juices of the tender, marinated meat pool together in that wrap. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Using a thin Turkish wrap, the Chicken Shawarma will win you over with its layers of marinated grilled chicken meat, toum and vegetables.
The wrap is thoughtfully cut, making each piece a one-bite morsel, flooding your mouth with the texture of the tender meat and those precious juices, packed with spices.
Eat it with those golden, fluffy fries dipped in the wasabi mayonnaise combined with a dollop of pomegranate molasses.
A salad of Italian parsley, onions and cherry tomatoes plus pickled green chilli, cucumber and radish, freshen up the whole dish.
Lamb Kebab is a juicy wonder with a pairing of braised cabbage and wholegrain mustard. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Hot off the grill, Lamb Kebab impresses with its juicy bite, sitting on a bed of soft cabbage and onions, drizzled with a creamy dressing, accompanied with wholegrain mustard.
Not into meat and prefer lighter-on-the-stomach seafood choices? The Grilled Squid (RM52) combines perfectly cooked squid with miso garlic butter and soft chickpeas, while simple baked tiger prawns are also available with zaatar butter.
Grilled Squid shows off the cook’s skill as the tender, just cooked squid is perfect. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Sitka fans will be happy to fist bump with the Charred Cabbage (RM42), a once upon a time headline dish of Sitka’s which has since shuttered and where Joel was once attached to.
A makeover of the dish uses separated leaves rather than a whole cabbage, making it much easier to eat together with the olive wasabi butter and pops of ikura.
Charred Cabbage has pops of ikura and an olive wasabi butter. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Another vegetarian dish, Roast Cauliflower (RM35) takes a deep red hue as shiso harissa mixes with creamy labneh.
End your night out with the two sweets, Baklava Sundae (RM32) or a Ginger Date Pudding (RM28), pushed into a realm of difference with small touches.
Baklava Sundae (RM32) may look like a classic Levantine dessert but under that blanket of filo pastry with pistachios, hides layers of peanut ice cream and banana puree.
Churned in-house, the peanut ice cream is pure nostalgia for Choy, reminiscent of kacang tumbuk with its flaky peanut shell filled with powdered peanut, usually found in Choy’s hometown, Penang.
Use your spoon to scoop up the different layers, giving you a bit of creamy peanut, flaky filo pastry, crunchy pistachios and sweetness with the banana puree, evoking childhood memories of a banana split.
Desserts like Baklava Sundae (left) and Ginger Date Pudding (right) evoke nostalgic memories. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
Ginger Date Pudding will fit properly on any dining table in England, as the soft, moist pudding is filled with a warm ginger flavour, sweetened with dates.
It takes a hit of saltiness with the miso caramel drizzled on top and to top it off, rather than just plain cream or even custard, it uses an unlikely combination of creamy rice pudding.
For refreshments, classic Levantine drinks like fruit flavoured soda Vimto and Kinza sodas, sit side by side with refreshing drinks using pomegranate and mint leaves.
Reservations are encouraged to avoid walking off disappointed.
In future, plans to open for lunch and a more extensive shawarma menu are in the works.
An open kitchen lets you watch the cooking action. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Zaataru
21-1, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail,
Kuala Lumpur
Open: 6pm to 10.30pm
Tel: 011-62245723
Instagram: @zaataru_ya
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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