KUALA LUMPUR, March 19 — On the rare occasions when I’m willing to make the effort for breakfast on a weekday, I almost never stray from a steady, familiar rotation of regular haunts.
But when a tip comes from the chef and patron of one of Malaysia’s pre-eminent restaurants — I’m not telling — it feels less like a suggestion and more like a social and professional obligation to follow up, which is how I found myself at Jaipur Curry House in TTDI at about half past nine in the morning.
Jaipur Curry House has been part of the neighbourhood for 32 years and is probably best known for its banana leaf offerings at lunch.
Jaipur Curry House is a longstanding institution in the neighbourhood, having been around since 1994. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Today, though, I was here for a breakfast item served from 6.30am to 11.30am: the Jaipur Special Uttapam with Egg (RM11.20).
If you’ve never had an uttapam before, it’s a thicker style of dosa, closer to a pancake than a crepe, and typically topped with various ingredients.
Mine arrived with an egg, shredded carrot, onions, plenty of fresh coriander and a generous dusting of the good stuff.
What is the good stuff, you ask? Like many of the more habit-forming pleasures, it comes in the form of a potent powder.
Gunpowder, or podi masala as it’s also known, is what makes this particular uttapam so enjoyable.
The soft, slightly sour texture of the fermented batter plays its part, as does the crisp edge, along with the sambar and two chutneys — the tomato chutney is a sweet standout — but it’s this brightly coloured powder that dials everything up to 11.
Though I forgot to ask for extra podi, as my tip had specifically advised, a little of this stuff goes a long way.
Made from dried chillies, roasted lentils and a blend of other spices, it delivers that trademark savoury, gently spicy depth that elevates a simple uttapam into something remarkable.
Somewhat unbelievably, it was the second part of the tip that truly intrigued me.
In addition to the special uttapam, I was told I would find what my source regards as “the most satisfying curry puff in the country, thus far.”
It’s only a curry puff, but it is truly one of the most satisfying specimens you’ll find. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Sky-high praise for the humble, ubiquitous curry puff. I’ve had plenty of bad ones in my time, so I was curious to see if this lived up to the hype.
But I hit a roadblock: in the three hours since opening, they had already sold out of the chicken variant, leaving only the vegetarian curry puff (RM1.60). My scepticism only grew.
What makes a curry puff truly satisfying? Is it a light, flaky pastry? A mildly spicy, thick filling? The sheer amount of filling? In this case, it was all three.
Lightly spicy, packed with potatoes and onions, I loved every bite. I think I need to start waking up earlier, even if just for these curry puffs.
Restaurant Jaipur Curry House
32, Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 1,
Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.
Open daily, 6.30am-9pm
Tel: 012-560 5532
Facebook: Jaipur Curry House TTDI
Instagram: @jaipurcurryhouse.my
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.
