KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 1 — Bukit Damansara’s very own office enclave-slash-hipster haven, The Five, is perhaps the last place one might expect to find classic Ipoh kai si hor fun or Singapore Katong laksa.
But that’s exactly the slice of familiarity the newly-opened Chope Chope Kopitiam is bringing to the office complex.
The latest venture from Tinkermen Collective occupies the space formerly home to their modern French restaurant Quin, on the ground floor of Block A above Qra.
Chope Chope is located above Qra, where the French restaurant Quin used to be. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
Not much is outwardly trendy about local kopitiam staples, but the rise of the “modern” kopitiam has been merrily rolling along for a while.
We are now about a decade removed from the heyday of PappaRich and OldTown White Coffee, and new faces like Oriental Kopi still tap into the same blend of nostalgia and ease to sway customers.
Diners, particularly office workers, still want their favourite local dishes for breakfast or lunch.
Although you can stick with traditional ‘laksa pendek’, I like the longer ‘laksa’ noodles as the bits of aromatics like lemongrass and ‘bunga kantan’ stick to the noodles. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
Most are simply willing to pay for the convenience of not sweating through their clothes on the way back to the office.
Well, I say local, but one of the most popular dishes on almost every table during my first weekday lunch visit to Chope Chope was the Katong laksa (RM22.90).
A Singaporean variation of Nyonya laksa, otherwise known as laksa lemak, its broth is built on a base of dried shrimp and enriched with coconut milk and aromatics like lemongrass, bunga kantan and the titular laksa leaf.
The outdoor patio is great to sit at, even on a gloomy day. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
The version here comes loaded with the typical fixings: cockles, prawns and fishcakes, as well as sotong.
A defining feature of Katong laksa is its short, cut-up noodles; traditionally, the dish is eaten with just a spoon.
At Chope Chope, you can opt for normal long laksa noodles, the faithful laksa pendek, kuey teow or thick mee hoon.
You may not see it, but you will definitely smell the fried ‘assam laksa’ when it arrives. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
I wasn’t feeling particularly Singaporean that day and, if I’m honest, I can’t recall the last time I felt any kinship with our neighbours, so I went for the normal laksa noodles, which worked a treat.
The long strands caught the solid chunks of bunga kantan and lemongrass, so each mouthful carried a fragrant punch, broken up by spoonfuls of savoury, mildly spicy broth with the deep aroma of dried shrimp.
But where deep, bold aromas are concerned, the fried assam laksa (RM18.90) takes the cake.
Everybody in the dining area will be alerted to your order (unless you’re sitting in the outdoor patio, which is lovely even on a gloomy day) as this unique dish announces itself by scent rather than sight.
The ‘kai si hor fun’ here does not skimp on prawn oil at all. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
Buried under a mountain of shredded lettuce, cucumber, mint, and raw onions are laksa noodles fried with sardine shreds and flecked with bunga kantan.
If you thought asam laksa broth was pungent, imagine it reduced and caramelised. All sorts of fishy, charred goodness carry over from nose to tongue, offset by the fresh, cool touch of the greens and mint. I’d come back just for this.
Staples like nasi lemak and wan tan mee also grace the menu, but Ipoh makes its presence felt thanks to the chef, Esther, who hails from Batu Gajah.
The kai si hor fun (RM18.90) is jazzed up with two firm, meaty prawns, but most importantly, they don’t skimp on the prawn oil.
It isn’t drizzled over so much as ladled into the broth. My only nitpick is that the shredded chicken can be dry and stringy, as the strips have been pulled rather than smashed flat and chopped with a cleaver.
A sweet treat from Ipoh, ‘creme caramel’. — Pictures by Ethan Lau
Stay in Ipoh for a sweet finish. Whether you know it as caramel custard, caramel pudding, custard flan or crème caramel (RM8.90), anyone who’s been to Ipoh will be familiar with the dish.
Though introduced by the Portuguese centuries ago, this simple dessert of cold custard topped with clear caramel sauce has become an iconic part of the local canon, especially in Ipoh.
Here, the custard is soft yet firm, not too eggy, and the caramel sauce is made with gula melaka for a full-circle local flourish.
Chope Chope Kopitiam
A-GF-01, The Five,
Kompleks Pejabat Damansara,
49, Jalan Dungun,
Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Monday to Saturday, 9am-6pm
Tel: 03-2011 0220
Instagram: @chopechopekopitiam
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and self-deprecating attempts at humour.
