KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 8 — Meat-free. Gluten-free. These are words that will bring shivers down the spine of those who love their protein, prefer stronger flavours on their tongue or those who aren’t gluten challenged.
Don’t feel intimidated by those labels though when you dine at By age 18, the latest Japanese export to our shores.
Even though it serves “borderless udon”, the fat, white strands with a bounce are so familiar with the exception that it’s crafted with rice flour, thus the gluten-free name.
Yes, there’s no meat here but with Japanese cuisine, an enormous amount of their food is plant-based, as meat and milk was used sparingly back in the old days.
The classic Tempura Udon is perfectly executed here with cold bouncy gluten-free udon and light, crispy battered vegetables. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
The Japanese are also experts at creating rich, substantial and satisfying flavours without meat, using other ingredients to create umami.
Tempura Udon (RM32) is the best way to enjoy vegetables deep-fried in batter, as you slurp down cold or hot udon.
As the batter is gluten-free, a thinner layer hugs the vegetables, giving it a light, crispy crunch not dragged down by heaviness, which can also be experienced with the delicate Deep Fried Crispy Chinese Yam (RM16).
The highlight of Kinchaku Kitsune Udon is that beancurd skin pouch with assorted greens, paired with udon. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Japanese food is all about simplicity and clean flavours, as illustrated with the Kinchaku Kitsune Udon (RM32).
Dominating the bowl is a pouch fashioned from beancurd skin, inviting you to break it open to discover treasures in the form of vegetables.
In Japan, a crowd favourite is the Bukkake Udon (RM30) dominated by a camera worthy mix of good-for-you vegetables covering cold udon dressed with soy sauce.
Beautifully fresh vegetables are the highlight of the cold Bukkake Udon. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
With the Curry Udon (RM32), the mellow spice from the curry makes it a perfect match with an assortment of vegetables and noodles.
In Kuala Lumpur, By age 18’s custodians are the team behind Towzen Vegan Ramen and Pure Heart Vegetarian, keeping that same Zen soul the Japanese outpost is famed for, while cleverly putting their own spin using familiar flavours like tomyam, mala and even basil pesto, to draw in locals.
In my mind, the Sichuan classic mapo tofu only works with rice but this Mapo Tofu Udon (RM32) changed my perspective, as the udon is slick with the spicy sauce that tingles the tongue from the Sichuan peppercorns as you get the undertones of saltiness and a bit of sweetness from the fermented soybean paste.
Mapo Tofu Udon combines a classic Chinese dish with its appetising spicy flavours and udon. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
The textures also blend together with the creamy beancurd, bouncy udon, crunch from the wood ear fungus and a crispy fried lotus root.
With so many flavours, a refresher in the form of Pickled Cherry Tomatoes with Umeboshi (RM16) can be ordered. Each udon order is also served with two cherry tomatoes, giving relief to the tongue overwhelmed by the flavours.
Refresh the palate with these Pickled Cherry Tomatoes with Umeboshi that can be ordered to share, which is also served with every order of udon too. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Avocado Tartare on Seaweed Crisp (Three pieces for RM22) also makes a great first bite to start the meal, as crunchy seaweed layered over a puffy rice cracker acts like an edible bowl for the meltingly soft avocado.
Rice is not forgotten here with fried rice, truffled or spiced up with tomyam.
Various rice bowls come paired with Spicy Yuzu Lion’s Mane Mushrooms or Teriyaki Lion’s Mane Mushroom (RM20 as a small bite),
The large-sized mushrooms are sliced to form flatter pieces to mimic a meat-like bite, coated with a sticky, sweet sauce. The same sauce coats the Teriyaki Pumpkin (RM16) but here, the texture of the sweet Japanese pumpkin is softer.
Avocado Tartare on Seaweed Crisps (front) starts a meal with an appetising crunch while the Teriyaki Lion’s Mane Mushroom (back) offers a hearty bite. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Desserts are a must too, particularly the smooth Matcha Pudding (RM16) mixed with kuromitsu and sprinkled with kinako.
Handmade gelato and sorbet feature too, with our top pick being the Pistachio Gelato (RM26), a creamy confection sprinkled with chopped pistachios.
Chocolate lovers may need to manage their expectations as the Brownies with Passionfruit & Gac Sorbet (RM28) and Chocolate Mousse Cake (RM16) may exude a richer chocolate flavour but a denser texture.
The sleeper hit is their oat milk matcha latte, finding favour as a cold treat-on-the-go. With three distinct layers — matcha, oat milk and freshly blitzed fruits — it also feeds your social media.
Favourites so far include the Iced Strawberry Matcha Latte and Iced Mango Matcha Latte. The chocolate version is rich but tends to dominate the matcha more. The drinks are RM20 each.
Dessert can be a simple Matcha Pudding topped with ‘kuromitsu’ and ‘kinako’. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
By age 18
A-1-01, First Floor,
Block A, The Five@KPD
49, Jalan Dungun,
Damansara Heights, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel:03-20112362
Instagram: @byage18_kl
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
