KUALA LUMPUR, April 2 — Walk into Wisma Cosway at lunch hour on any given weekday, and a veritable bonanza of food options awaits.
Cheap, local eats to feed the working man have always been a feature, but now everything from fish and chips to Thai beef noodles has joined the fray.
The sheer number and variety of operators means the options go beyond the ground floor, stretching into the first and second floors as well.
With so many signs and buntings jostling for your attention, some shops end up hiding in plain sight — even when they’re right in front of the main escalator.
Situated on the first floor and fronted by a small, rather inconspicuous wooden sign, Smakrik is easily overshadowed by its louder, brighter neighbours.
Then there’s also the matter of the name. It won’t be immediately apparent to most Malaysians, the way a straightforward kopitiam or chicken rice spot might be.
It’s Swedish for the word “tasty”, a fact made infinitely more curious by the restaurant’s main offerings: tacos.
For RM25, the large lunch set comes with your choice of two tacos, and either fries or Mexican tomato rice. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Walking into the shop offers a glimpse of personality in the form of iconic movie posters: Pulp Fiction, Kill Bill, Point Break, Scarface, Tombstone — somebody really likes 90s action flicks — and they adorn the otherwise bare walls.
Behind the pass is the reason for the restaurant’s Swedish name, chef-owner Tobias Olsson, whose globetrotting culinary career took him from Stockholm to Shanghai, where he helmed SVEA, a modern Nordic restaurant.
Smakrik, which is just over a year old, offers its interpretation of the quintessential Mexican street food with three tacos at RM9 each: beef, chicken and fish.
These aren’t traditional variants like carne asada or al pastor by any means, but they all contain elements that hint at their influences.
The beef tacos have a beef and bean “ragu” base that’s reminiscent of chili con carne, the classic Mexican stew that’s become a staple of Southwest American cuisine.
This is milder in comparison, its warm depth contrasted against cold, refreshing toppings of tomato salsa, sour cream and pickled onion.
The chicken tacos feature a chipotle (smoke-dried jalapeños, not the restaurant chain) rub on the bird, topped with a lime aioli and pineapple and corn salsa.
The presence of pineapple feels like a sly nod to tacos al pastor, a style of taco with meat roasted on a spit and traditionally served with pineapple, originating from Lebanese immigrants bringing shawarma to Puebla in central Mexico.
Every taco comes in a lightly toasted tortilla, offering a warm, slightly crisp mouthfeel while retaining a soft, pliable texture — particularly enjoyable here thanks to the crunchy pops of corn.
Smakrik is a small space, with a sign that doesn’t quite jump out at you. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The fish tacos comprise a battered, deep-fried piece of white fish on a bed of pickled cabbage, with a squirt of mint-and-chilli crema.
It is perhaps the most evocative of the three, bearing a strong resemblance to the Ensenada-style tacos de pescado of Baja California, which typically feature deep-fried fish, a shredded cabbage slaw and a flavoured crema — a Mexican cultured cream condiment that’s thinner than sour cream and a staple topping for many tacos, particularly this variety.
It is my favourite, though it was begging for a wedge of lime to really lift things. I made do with the assortment of hot sauces provided; my favourite, Cholula, offers just the right balance of tang and heat for my taste. Give them all a try.
For RM17, you can get one taco with fries or Mexican tomato rice, or two tacos with the same choice for RM25.
The rice, topped with tortilla chips, tomato salsa and pickled cabbage, isn’t the star here — but that hardly matters.
Smakrik stands out because tacos of this style aren’t something you come across every day in a place like Wisma Cosway. It’s a small reminder that our city is full of unexpected, delicious discoveries waiting to be found.
Smakrik
Lot 1.33, Wisma Cosway,
88, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Monday to Friday, 11am-3.30pm
Tel: 014-367 7658
Instagram: @smakrik_kl
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.
