AMPANG, Mar 16 — Random finds are always sweeter, especially when you hit the jackpot, which is how I ended up at this Taman Muda eatery.
I can’t take credit for that luck as my friend discovered this place and proclaimed it the best beef tendons she had ever encountered.
That was a good incentive for me, leading me to visit this dual-name eatery.
The signboard says “Restoran Ah Yee Wantan Mee,” but everything else says “Yee Gourmet Noodle House,” leading one to wonder about the backstory for the name change.
I didn’t wonder too long about all this; I just wanted to try the beef tendons.
For a side dish, Beef Ball Soup hits the mark with its more natural tasting beef balls — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Being the curious one, I ordered the Five Spices Beef Noodles (RM14.90) with a combination of beef brisket, tendons, tripe and egg noodles.
True enough, those tendons passed their gelatinous test with flying colours, achieving that hard-to-attain melting mouthfeel.
Beef brisket pulled apart easily, showing clear serrations on the meat that signaled its time in the pressure cooker.
It does get a little dry since it doesn’t have much fat so I rectify it by dunking it in the chili sauce.
Lamb Noodles is an eye-catching item in the menu, featuring tender chunks of lamb coated by a thin sauce — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Their chili sauce isn’t the bright red hued one most places offer; this version is a complex composition of chilies (fresh and dried), ginger, garlic and a hint of tanginess.
Generous chunks of white radish in my bowl made it a glorious meal; I savoured each piece slowly.
The broth is a pristine clear version, almost like a consommé, which I appreciated since achieving this clarity usually requires training.
Yes, it’s light but achieving this kind of taste is harder than just throwing every spice into the pot, which overwhelms the other elements.
Chilli sauce may not look bright red but its flavour is complex with a zingy touch (left). The eatery is clean and air-conditioned to protect diners from the heat (right) — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
Those with heavier palates may dismiss this broth as “tasteless,” so approach with caution as this bowl of beef noodles may not appeal to you.
The fine egg noodles sealed the deal for me; these were fine strands with little alkali taste yet retained a lovely bite.
Serious beef tendon lovers can also just order the Five Spices Beef Tendon Noodles (RM20.90); a wondrous bowl of good-for-you collagen.
Don’t forget their Beef Balls Soup (RM5) with a less super bouncy bite that feels more natural.
Lamb Noodles (RM20.90) are a rarity on many menus.
This dry version came with well-cooked lamb pieces, likely cooked in a pressure cooker.
Look for the signboard that says Restoran Ah Yee Wantan Mee instead as you walk down the street — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
While the meat is worthy of a second order, the braising sauce used to toss with the noodles is thinned out, losing much of its flavour and failing to make a solid impression.
Just stick to the beef noodles and you won’t be disappointed if you favour a lighter beef broth.
Notably, the eatery maintains the highest standards of cleanliness, making a meal pleasant especially inside the air-conditioned dining space when it’s sweltering heat outside.
Yee Gourmet Noodle House (also known as Restoran Ah Yee Wantan Mee)
32, Jalan Bunga Tanjung 9B,
Taman Muda, Ampang.
Tel: 018-2035525
Open: 8am to 3pm. Closed on Wednesday.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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