KUALA LUMPUR, April 27 — Crispy skin like a prawn cracker makes this roast pork stand out. That’s not all.
There’s crystal char siu with a thin grilled crust and tender meat. Even their roast chicken with its brown skin is juicy and appetising.
That’s what you get at this roadside shack that opened in Kepong last year.
The master behind these superb roasted meats is a chef known as “Gao Lao Wah,” a nod towards his stature since the nickname literally translates to “tall guy”.
On the eatery’s wall, his story recounts a life spent learning the craft of roast meats at Tai Thong Restaurant and even a stint with Ah Soon Kor (Wong Ling Soon), regarded as one of the great Chinese masters who once operated Chef Rasa Sayang Restaurant in Imbi.
Schooled in the art of siu mei (roast meats), he upholds his mentors’ call to use the freshest ingredients to create good roast meats.
The à la carte portion of roast pork is a thicker chunky cut, similar to what’s served in posh Chinese restaurants. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Every day, there’s a variety of chicken (boiled and roasted), roast pork and char siu. Roast goose is also available by order.
Even though they open early in the morning, swing by around 11am to catch the roasted meats hot from the oven.
To put prices in perspective: a plate of rice paired with a roasted or boiled chicken wing can cost as low as RM5, while the usual single pairing of char siu or roast pork with rice will set you back RM9.50.
Double meat combinations range from RM9.50 to RM11, depending on the chicken part.
The ultimate platter is the triple combination of roasted chicken drumstick, char siu and roast pork that can cost up to RM15.
When curating these sets, eateries usually pick the choice cuts for the roasted meats ordered à la carte rather than for these rice combinations.
Roast pork has a crispy skin like a prawn cracker (left). Chilli crisp is served with the noodles, which are super spicy (right). — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
To my surprise, this combination was superb: juicy chicken with a fragrant skin, a decent-sized cut of tender char siu with just a thin, not too sweet crust and even the roast pork lived up to its promised “prawn cracker” crispiness.
Of course, the roast pork is not cut as thickly as the à la carte strip of roast pork (RM20).
Those thick, square-looking pieces of roast pork reminded me of the trim cuts usually served in a proper restaurant even though they probably didn’t have time to place them perfectly during the lunch rush.
A word also about their rice: it looks plain but has a very light flavour and the plump, separate grains were the perfect backdrop for the superb roast meats.
The chilli sauce is decent, but with such well-prepared meats, you should relish their flavour rather than burn your tongue with spiciness.
Springy HK style bamboo noodles is served with ‘char siu’ and a bowl of wontons. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Noodle lovers can opt for their Hong Kong style bamboo noodles with thin, springy strands.
Char siu wonton noodles (RM9.50) is the best choice as it comes with their coveted wontons.
You will notice how big these wontons are; they hide juicy prawns and just a smidgeon of minced pork, making each bite satisfying.
Their noodles arrive swimming in a pool of sauce — it looks like they are drowning — but once you mix it all up, the sauce perfectly coats the thin strands.
The sauce is darker and has a stronger taste of lard, making it a dish that will satisfy those seeking deeper flavours.
It also comes with a chili crisp that has a lingering heat, hitting the back of your tongue with its spiciness.
‘Wontons’ are superb with whole prawns and minced pork. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
The char siu is cut into thin slices, with a half fat and half meat cut (pun fei sau).
I found the top of the meat tender, but the bottom part was definitely harder to bite through, taking away from the enjoyment of the roast meat.
It’s a complete opposite of the char siu I had with my platter, which was juicy and beautifully charred.
Perhaps it’s best to enjoy it with the rice combination instead, right when it emerges from the oven.
The place gets crowded during lunch time but service is efficient. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
The eatery gets crowded during lunchtime, but the food and service are efficient.
On the storyboard plastered on the inside wall, the eatery is also known as Nan Yang Chicken Rice, which is what many people refer to their other outlet in Setapak Indah.
The older restaurant also features the name, Gao Lao Hwa, which uses a different spelling but the same colours, and just like this one it has a wide fanbase for its roasted meats.
It may just be a roadside stall but this place definitely deserves multiple visits for their roast meats. — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Restoran Gao Lao Wah
4, Jalan Burung Berbarau,
Taman Bukit Maluri,
Kepong, Kuala Lumpur.
Open: 6:30am to 3pm Closed on Monday.
Tel: 012-3228897
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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