PETALING JAYA, April 16 — If you think of Hokkien mee — the KL variety, not Penang — and where to find it in Petaling Jaya, chances are a particularly famous, long-standing spot in Seksyen 14 comes to mind.
But what of its less famous, less busy neighbour at the other end of the same row of shops, in Restoran Mei Keng?
Though it may not be as established, Peng Yuan Hokkien Mee has been around for decades, spending most of that time in the shadow of its neighbour.
The tree slightly obscures Restoran Mei Keng’s sign, but the coffeeshop’s glaring white lights are impossible to miss at night. — Picture by Ethan Lau
It is the quintessential “the other place”; any discussion of it is almost always done in relation to its more famous counterpart — this piece included.
But it’s lasted this long. There has to be a reason.
It’s hard not to think so after one look at the dark, sticky, very caramelised plate of Hokkien mee (RM35 for 3 pax), topped with extra ingredients (RM7) and a mountain of pork lard (RM4).
A noticeable trait of Peng Yuan’s version is the thick, almost dry consistency of the sauce, which clings to the noodles so firmly that there’s almost no trace of it left on the orange plate.
Baby squid is a unique inclusion in Peng Yuan’s Hokkien mee. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Instead of a soggy, wet mess, it has a glaze-like mouthfeel that leans slightly sweet while boasting plenty of wok hei.
The sauce coats everything else just as thoroughly — prawns, pork, and springy bits of baby squid, a signature calling card here.
Though the coffeeshop is fairly quiet at night, with only one or two other stalls open, a steady stream of regulars means there can be a slight wait for your noodles — we ordered at 7.30pm, and it arrived after just over 20 minutes.
Still, it’s child’s play compared to the wait at the other end of the street. Many tables ordered the pork soup (RM24 for 2 pax) to tide themselves over, and we followed suit, enjoying the surprisingly smoky broth with cabbage, choy sum, slices of velveted pork, and a generous topping of yet more pork lard. Peng Yuan does not skimp on the goodies.
Hungry during the wait? Try the pork soup, which is generously topped with even more pork lard. — Picture by Ethan Lau
So, yes, in most minds, Peng Yuan sits firmly in the shadow of the other place down the road.
But their Hokkien mee more than earns its place. It is, perhaps, “the other place” only by reputation; on the plate, there is little sense of second place.
Peng Yuan Hokkien Mee in Restoran Mei Keng
42, Jalan 14/48,
Seksyen 14,
Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Open daily, 4.30-11.30pm
Tel: 010-281 3382
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and occasionally self-deprecating humour.
